Hotel Santa Maria, L'Ile-Rousse ( ; m ).
After a few miles, the montalivet echangisme modern palazzi gave way to ancient farmhouses; an old stone bridge spanned a stream, and steps led up to the ruined fortress that gives Castello its name.Travel Essentials, getting there, corsica has four airports Bastia, Calvi, Ajaccio and Figari.It means to go bush, to hide from the world.Doubles from 100, room only.Maquis is the catch-all term for the vegetation toupéeing much of the island, jungly thickets of pungent mastic, thorny scrub, wildflowers and herbs rosemary, lavender, mint, thyme.The view libertin synonyme en arabe was always spectacular, though, both across the wild valleys and down to coves where white sand meets a lapis sea not a highrise hotel in sight in this, the south-west, and least-populated, corner of Corsica.Staying there, hotel les Mouettes, Ajaccio ( ; ).One such, Castel Brando, has been converted into a hotel where I could happily have stayed for days.
But, then, that seemed to be my story in Corsica: always another option beckoning, always another unknown to know.
So I hurried down through the narrow alleys and archways of the old citadel to the marina, where Bonifacio's harbour ends in a tinkle of yacht masts and cafés.
Doubles from 87, room only.Good for the average cyclist?It's generally off-limits, but on Tuesday and Thursday evenings the tourist office runs city tours, open to all, that finish up here for a sunset panorama.Instead, I took to the hills.The main carriers from the UK are easyJet ( ; m Titan Airways ( ; m ) and BA ( ; m ).We paused for espresso and aniseedy pastis in hilltop Sartène.I retreated to a tiny park with a cassis gelato and watched how to change mac pc language old men play pétanque, the chink of their boules mingling with the yacht-mast jangle of the nearby marina.We'd had a quick poke around Ajaccio, the city where Napoleon was born: his family home is now a museum, and a toga-ed Boney statue lords over Place Foch's farmers' market, which was heady with hams and cheeses.